Pure Bliss

Woke up too early but the sun didn't care. The red hot star created sweat droplets down my cheeks and a dire need for a drink of water. This combination of annoyances was enough to pull me up and out of my slumber. I climbed out of my camping bed and soaked in the view. A large, calm body of water called the Dead Sea was staring right back at me. The waters appeared relatively clear and inviting. Surely it would refresh me and fulfill my need for coolness. The only thing nagging my brain was that little known fact that the salt concentration is so high it has a short but obvious burning sensation and should never be in contact with the eyes or mouth. This little known fact crushed any idea of diving into the sea, instead, I just sat back down and relaxed in the shade.
Looking around it is clear that this is no ordinary beach. Tree branches and rocks are covered with a thick, hard shell of salt which drips over like icicles. Small pools of salt water have dried creating crystal chips that sparkle and glitter in the sunlight.
As I stand on the beach I look out to the horizon. On one side of the sea lies Jordon and on the other side lies sharp mountain sides. The land is bare but jagged and painted with beautiful deep orange and red colors. A few yards away from where we camped lie very inviting pools of natural and refreshing cool waters. These are often used to rinse off after a salty dip in the Dead Sea.
Now rested and satisfied with my surroundings, I decide that it is time to test the waters. I walk to the shore and dip my feet first. The warmth and thickness of the water is inviting despite the stingy to the skin from the salt. Even small cuts do not go unnoticed. I dunk my body and float effortlessly. The stingy dissipates quickly and all that is felt is silky smooth waters. A slight turn to the side sends me spinning in the water. In the deep sections I can float upright like a buoy. Smiles and giggles are contagious and sharing the experience with Amitaii and his friends was a definite highlight to my travels.
The rest of the day was spent smashing mud on our bodies and basking in the sun. As difficult as it was to end the day, my friends needed to return to work. It was a great moment when I realized that I hadn't worried about or anticipated work for months now. I don't think I knew the true meaning of relaxation and the pure bliss it can bring until taking this journey.
I returned back to Tel Aviv and for 2 more days I toured the city by bus and bicycle. I visited areas such as the old city of Jaffa-a city over 4000 years old and founded by Noah's son-Japheth, the Yemenite Quarters-a maze of narrow cobbled streets, and the famous square where peace seeking and national symbol, Prime Minister Rabin, was assassinated. It is easy to say that one of my favorite pass times was admiring all of the architectural beauties. Two loves that stick out in my memory are the rounded Bauhaus buildings and the Israeli flag. The architectural design is timeless and the Israeli flag is easily spotted waving proudly throughout on old and new homes, store fronts, cars and bicycle baskets.
A few days later Amittai whisked me away on yet another journey to Northern Israel. I had been invited to stay with his brother and girlfriend, Nimrod and Denete.....Full speed ahead and another journal entry to follow!
Fun facts about the Dead Sea: 1) It is 1300 feet below sea level-making it the lowest place on earth 2) It is made up of 33% salt, making it the highest concentration in the world 3) Nearly impossible to drown in the waters due to the salt content 4) over 300 biblical and non biblical scrolls have been discovered in the caves surrounding the Dead Sea 5) Both the Dead Sea and Kilimanjaro are part of the same fault line, Syro-African, running through the Great Rift Valley. That means I visited the lowest (Dead Sea) and the highest (Kilimanjaro) place on this fault line. Super Cool for me :)

Just Breathe....

So many people say to me, "You are so brave to travel by yourself". I wonder sometimes if they are just being polite and truly they want to replace the word "brave" with "stupid". Mostly I just shrug and don't really care either way. However, traveling from Egypt to Israel via the Taba border crossing was probably more adventurous rather than wise. Of course everything went smooth and was completely safe but I did wonder about my choice in transportation when I read that the Taba border was last bombed only 3 years ago. None the less, I ventured out and took a bus ride rather than an expensive plane ride. My route followed the roads of Sinai through miles of beautiful views of sand dunes, crystal clear waters of the Red Sea, and hill sides of Jordon and Saudi Arabia. Worth every penny I saved by not taking a plane.

Once I arrived at the border crossing I was searched for about 3 hours-not necessarily "physically" searched but my bag and passport were given the full interrogation and I was asked about 50 questions regarding my plans in Israel. Certainly understandable on Israeli terms however I just was a bit concerned because I missed the last bus that would take me to Tel Aviv- 5 hours away. But my luck was changing dramatically and within minutes I found a kind tour bus that had an extra seat. The bus was reserved for 6 Colombian tourists but I was welcomed for only 15 bucks. It was a great ride that was spent laughing, practicing my Spanish speaking skills and getting great traveling tips from the driver. When I finally arrived it was late but the air was sticky warm and I could feel that Tel Aviv was just coming to life! I sat myself down on a bench and within a minute I was in a traveler's conversation with 2 locals- Amittai and Tami. They offered me a local beer and companionship for the walk to my hostel (yes, it is legal to drink on the streets in Israel!). After a quick check-in to my less than appealing room, I set off with my new friends to the local watering holes and a late night stroll along the Mediterranean Sea. The night ended that morning but sleep is overrated right??

The next day I was again spoiled with a personal tour of the city. My new friend, Amittai, spent the entire day giving me the inside edition to the culture and historical sites of the city. The local beach front was covered with cyclists, runners and walkers and the streets lined with funky boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Sound familiar Belmont Shorians? The main difference being the truly authentic Mediterranean food and men- both delicious! The day came to an end but not a moment too soon-my exhaustion had begun to settle and a restful night was desperately needed.

The next 2 days were spent wandering the streets with my camera. Rosh Hashanah was closing in and the holiday spirit was in the air. I enjoyed strolling the streets and local markets; watching the people purchasing fresh meats, vegetable, fruits and flowers for their families. I admit I was feeling a bit melancholy-feeling like a true outsider without friends and family to share the holiday. I actually contemplated returning home early. I was certainly having a wonderful time but was thinking that Hawaii might be calling me to set up a new home. But that feeling was short lived as I received two wonderful invitations that very day. The first being from my friend Boaz who was leaving for China the next day-we met up for dinner. Great to see him and nice to have an enjoyable conversation with a friend. Truly needed to pick up my spirits!The next surprise came from Amittai who invited me to join him and some friends for a camping trip to the Dead Sea. Without hesitation I accepted and was off for a completely unexpected journey! Stay tuned, the adventures are just beginning.

Red red wine, you make me feel so fine.....

I know it has been a long time since I have written but trust me that it isn't for a lack of effort. I can't even begin to count the times I have attempted to complete this journal entry. Sometimes it feels like eating that meal that your mother won't let you leave the table until you have taken at least 5 bites of ....you know the moment when the food is in your mouth and you start gaging but you push through it and start to swallow. That is what this journal entry is for me..... the thoughts and emotions from my Egypt trip taste sour and "liver like". The words become stuck in the back of my throat and I start choking on the story. No one is around to perform the Heimlich, so I just spit it out all together. The story is erased with one push of the "delete" button and I must start the journal entry all over.
Today I am served the same meal but the difference is I have a glass a wine to wash it down with...let's see if it helps me write this time around....

First just know that the pyramids were spectacular and the museums were ahhhhmazing. Once I download my pictures properly you will see that trying to describe them is pointless. Let's just skip to the unusual and truly unique experiences of Cairo. Here are a few of my favorite things...

1) Walking the streets in Cairo: The old market and city streets of Cairo required me to conservatively dress myself from head-to-toe. Abiding by this cultural tradition still did not completely disguise my blond hair and blue eyes. Strips of hair often peeked out from under my scarf and my eyes were only able to avoid eye contact, not change colors like a chameleon. However my attempt to be respectful paid off and I enjoyed the sites of beautiful fabrics, foods and furniture with complete ease. I was welcomed by offerings of bits of fruit and breads from the local vendors. I walked freely for a few hours snapping photos of buildings and views. I was always aware of my surroundings but never once did I feel unsafe or unwelcome. Truly an unexpected experience in an area that I was warned against even by the hotel staff in Cairo.
2) Camel ride through the desert and entering tombs of the Pharos: Such sacred places and stones covered with ancient carvings-over 4000 years old. Almost impossible to comprehend the complexity, time, and strength that was needed to create these masterpieces. I was left standing with my jaw hanging and my eyes wide open.
3) Daily sittings with a new friend: Being invited each day to sit and discuss such sensitive topics as politics, religion, culture...the conversation always calm and open- completely capable of sharing our most obvious assumptions of each others countries without feeling slighted or insulted. I was also asked to share a breakfast meal during the Ramadan holiday....once again, feeling accepted and grateful.
4) Vantage points as far as the eye can see: Standing atop the hill side where it is thought that the Jewish slaves carved out giant stone used to build the pyramids. The stone was sent away on boats on the Nile River and carried to great heights. Directly under this gigantic wall of stone lies the City of the Dead. It is easily recognized as all the roof tops are of the same height and is eerily lined with ancient cemeteries. Now with the population of Cario estimated at 7 million, people are forced to find homes in this make shift housing track. The families are technically "illegally" residing in the City of Dead but clearly a necessary habitat. It is thought that the living population is as high as 4 million amongst the population of the dead.

My journey through Egypt ended with a short stay in the Sinai region- Sharm elSheikh. I had 2 days filled with clear waters from the Red Sea, snorkeling with fishes that represented all the colors of a rainbow, and smooth sand that welcomed me to lay and sun bath with peace and silence. Of course I had many times when I was reminded of the immature and rude manners of the male species -this eventually setting my feet off into a sprint to the Israeli border ...stay tuned because Israel has proven to be the most fun of all!

Look at that, I did it! I completed my entry. Now, I can truly say that red wine makes everything feel fine!

Cheers.

Him vs. Me.......Part 2

-Him: "You are so beautiful, where is your husband or boyfriend??
-Me: "He is right behind you, ready to stick his foot up your ass"!!

-Him: "I do not get paid from the tour company, I only get paid what you tip me".
-Me: "Hmmm, what do you think the tour company would say about that"???

-Him: "I can tell by looking at you , you have no religion".
-Me: "It must be my white skin and blonde hair that gave it away, or is it the American horns that are protruding from the top of my head"??

-Him: "The dessert is made with honey. Sweet honey...just like you."
-Me: "Actually I am quite bitter tasting, it has been a bad year"

-Him: "You are so sweet and I am a MAN who can show you all the ways"!!
-Me: "Really, I have been known to date younger men but 16 years old is not doing it for me"!

-Him: "I am looking for a foreign wife to share my bed with, I am done with the Egyptian woman"
-Me: "You are disgusting"

Him: "Egyptian men are like stallions in the bedroom, that is why all the women want to be with us"
Me: "I have never been interested in horses that way"

Him: "Hello beautiful, are you looking for me? (he laughs) Don't worry I am a married man".
Me: "Well that makes it all the better. At first I just thought you were a pig, now I just think you are a F****** Pig"!


Note:
1) I must confess that I NEVER replied with any of the above answers. However just having the thought to reply that way always made me laugh and rarely did I get offended or upset.
2) I will be adding more as the list continues...stay tuned!

Monkey Business

I have painted you a picture of the gorilla trekking adventure so now let me tell you about all the things that fell in between.
Most tourists arrange their permits to see the gorillas months in advance however I was not this prepared...sound familiar friends?? However I found a safari group that was completely efficient in getting my permit and arranging my accommodations upon a days notice. They ensured that I had every document prepared and ready each day. I never once dealt with any glitches and the transportation was comfortable and reliable. I was blessed with the guidance of Sam who toured me around and gave me complete confidence and safety the entire trip. Sam provided me with information regarding the region, politics and people. Thank goodness for Sam!!
My journey in Uganda started in Kapala-the capital. I stayed in a hotel that was smack dab in the middle of the business district. It can be overwhelming the first day in any new country so my general plan is usually to stick close to the hotel and get my feel for the area. However, my agent arranged for transportation to any shopping or dinner destinations. I was given a lovely tour of the city including insight to the religious and political challenges of Uganda. This was a treat because it was not necessarily part of my package however the guide was clearly set in making my visit completely unforgettable. In the evening I was surrounded by the hills of Uganda from a lovely French restaurant complete with the sounds of Muslim's prayer and a distant purple and pink lightening show.

The next day I journeyed for several hours with across Uganda. I admired banana plantations, fields of tea leaves, local food markets and landscapes referred to as the "Switzerland of Africa". It is extremely green in this region as the rain is a constant. Once I arrived in the Bwindi National Park, I was brought to my sleeping quarters in a small but beautiful camping park. There were banda's (small round huts) or self contained tents for sleeping. I had a lovely self contained tent with a wrap around deck. My home for the night overlooked the entrance to the jungle. I sat on the porch and watched the black and white Colobus monkeys swing from the vines; only occasionally glancing in my direction to ensure their safety. After a warm meal, I drifted off with ease as the sound of the river lulled me to sleep.

An early rise to start my day and meet my fellow trekkers. Some were from Belgium and the others from London. (See, "In the Mist of it All" for gorilla adventures). The 3 from London; Sarah, David and Adam, were also on a tour and had a similar agenda as mine for the next 3 days. Once again, I found myself taken in by strangers and made an instant friend. Of course, I couldn't resist their generosity and good looks so I graciously accepted their temporary adoption. I was lucky to discover that my new friends were also staying at the same hotel on the beautiful Lake Bunonyi. Despite the rain we were able to enjoy canoeing, hiking, swimming and of course...drinking! I felt completely refreshed by the abundance of laughter and quickly developed wonderful new memories. Sarah, David and Adam share not only a strong friendship but a common career as lawyers. I enjoyed their witty banter, views on politics, and most of all...their ability to make every discussion end with a joke about sex. Boys...they never grow up! Of course, me, I am completely innocent and am offended by such jokes and comments :)

Side note: While in that region, the president of Uganda visited a nearby town and also drove through the town of Lake Bunyonyi. It was quit the buzz and people walked for miles to hear him talk.

Eventually we all returned back to Kapala but not before stopping off at the equator point in Uganda. I have to admit that I was taken by the water draining demonstration-I believe this is called the Coriolis Effect?? Water drains to the right when north of the equator and to the left south of the equator. On the actual equator itself-there is no bend or rotation of the water. I paid a few bucks for the demonstration and then received a certificate of completion. Now I understand that you might be thinking I am fool for paying for a certificate but I need to carry on the tradition. So far on my travels, I have received a certificate for Kilimanjaro, Balloon Ride over the Serengeti, Trekking with the Gorillas and now the Equator! Not exactly sure if I have room on my walls for the display but it will be good for a scrapbook.

Now back in Kapala, my friends joined me at my hotel and we ventured out for a farewell dinner. The next day I was off with Jewel Safari's to see the source of the Nile river-it bubbles up from Lake Victoria and then flows north to Egypt-it takes a total of 40 days. The rapids, that were a few meters away from the source, were not an appealing ride as I believe they were class 4. A bit too steep for my taste. Instead I devoured the local catch, tilapia and a Nile Lager.

Eventually I found myself back to my home base of Nairobi, Kenya. After a day of rest and clean-up, I flew out to Cairo, Egypt. Another interesting flight of people watching (people watching me mostly!!) but uneventful none the less. I am now here is Cairo and booking myself some tours of the area. I think you can expect some good stories to follow. As a teaser, I will tell you that my hotel room overlooks 2 pyramids in Giza.....Fanfuckingtakstic!

Cheers!!

In the Mist of it all.....

Follow the path of hills covered with misty air, soggy mud and slippery steps, for this is the Bwindi jungle. Once deep inside the canopy of trees comes falling leaves and sounds of crackling branches. Stretch the neck above to find bundles of black fur swinging from vines and long arms reaching for nourishment from berries and figs. Just a few steps further lay the family of 14; Two silver backs, 1 black back, and several mothers and their babes. Seemingly undisturbed by the visitors, the group of gorillas were observed in their home for the day. The silverbacks showed their dominance by remaining calm but completely aware and guarded. Mother's embraced their young and tried to rest however their efforts were futile as their babes were most curious. The juveniles proved their skills by swinging from vines, pounding their chests, and tumbling and wrestling with their siblings. Eventually these seemingly gentle giants moved on to a new place of rest.
The end of the journey was spent following the rolling land through crops of coffee beans and tea leaves. Children followed the trespassers with gifts and drawings to sell. They showered us with the few English phrases they knew: "Hello, how are you?". Hard to resist the smiles and sweet voices. These small children appeared with underdeveloped muscles and enlarged tummies that distinctly told the tale of malnutrition. Food is plentiful but lacking in all the necessary nutrition. Pests like worms eat away at their bellies and the children are left unable to grow properly. Despite this all, the children were covered with smiles and pride. Their tenderness left unscathed by the harshness of the environment. More children gathered to perform traditional African song and dance. Melody, rhythm and energy filled the air. For whatever may be lacking in this world, these people made up for it with their happiness and kindness. Their ability to share it was beyond expectation.
For the first time I realized that these moments of gratitude and amazement are slowly crushing and replacing the painful memories that once occupied my mind.
Thank you Uganda!
Cheers friends!!

Lamu My Sweet Treat!

Jambo my friends!! I have returned from the small island of Lamu. Different than I expected but not disappointed! I white knuckled most of the flight and kissed the ground when we landed. There are no motorized vehicles allowed on the island therefore donkey, foot or boat are the only way around. If you have been following my blogs, you will have noticed that foul smells seem to be a common occurrence. Sometimes the smell is coming from my fellow travelers, porters/guides, and yes, even myself! But this time the smell of Lamu wasn't any of these things, this time it was the pungent low tide or donkey dung. Truthfully, I just don't think I would feel comfortable during my travels unless something stunk like high hell.
The island was much smaller than I had anticipated but the quiet and slow pace was much welcomed. I stayed in a very secluded hotel with only 3 other guests. It is the end of their low season but even more devastating to tourism was the political unrest from the presidential elections held last Dec. in Kenya. Regardless, I enjoyed my stay and met a LOVELY couple from South Africa. Peter and Merryl were so kind and humorous. We went into town, fishing, swimming, and had meals together. I think they felt sorry for me, either that or they just enjoyed making fun of my American accent-PEETAR!! We had lots of laughs and I didn't mind being the butt of most of them. It is absolutely wonderful to sit for hours and discuss the cultural and political differences of all the places we have visited and even our own. September became the beginning of Ramadan. Most of the population here on the island of Lamu is Muslim, therefore, fasting and prayer was a common way of spending the day. There are many mosques nearby and the daily prayer could be heard from the roof tops.
Besides all of the wonderful sites, I truly find the people the most entertaining and often inspiring. So thank you to all the locals and travelers that I met along the way!
I am back in Nairobi again lounging by the pool. I will be trying to book a trip to Uganda to see the gorillas. Wish me luck and kisses to all!
Cheers!

Thanks for all the comments friends! They make me laugh and feel back at home. Can someone please send me a chicken tamale and a Negro Modelo!! Taco Surf.....yummy!!!