Red red wine, you make me feel so fine.....

I know it has been a long time since I have written but trust me that it isn't for a lack of effort. I can't even begin to count the times I have attempted to complete this journal entry. Sometimes it feels like eating that meal that your mother won't let you leave the table until you have taken at least 5 bites of ....you know the moment when the food is in your mouth and you start gaging but you push through it and start to swallow. That is what this journal entry is for me..... the thoughts and emotions from my Egypt trip taste sour and "liver like". The words become stuck in the back of my throat and I start choking on the story. No one is around to perform the Heimlich, so I just spit it out all together. The story is erased with one push of the "delete" button and I must start the journal entry all over.
Today I am served the same meal but the difference is I have a glass a wine to wash it down with...let's see if it helps me write this time around....

First just know that the pyramids were spectacular and the museums were ahhhhmazing. Once I download my pictures properly you will see that trying to describe them is pointless. Let's just skip to the unusual and truly unique experiences of Cairo. Here are a few of my favorite things...

1) Walking the streets in Cairo: The old market and city streets of Cairo required me to conservatively dress myself from head-to-toe. Abiding by this cultural tradition still did not completely disguise my blond hair and blue eyes. Strips of hair often peeked out from under my scarf and my eyes were only able to avoid eye contact, not change colors like a chameleon. However my attempt to be respectful paid off and I enjoyed the sites of beautiful fabrics, foods and furniture with complete ease. I was welcomed by offerings of bits of fruit and breads from the local vendors. I walked freely for a few hours snapping photos of buildings and views. I was always aware of my surroundings but never once did I feel unsafe or unwelcome. Truly an unexpected experience in an area that I was warned against even by the hotel staff in Cairo.
2) Camel ride through the desert and entering tombs of the Pharos: Such sacred places and stones covered with ancient carvings-over 4000 years old. Almost impossible to comprehend the complexity, time, and strength that was needed to create these masterpieces. I was left standing with my jaw hanging and my eyes wide open.
3) Daily sittings with a new friend: Being invited each day to sit and discuss such sensitive topics as politics, religion, culture...the conversation always calm and open- completely capable of sharing our most obvious assumptions of each others countries without feeling slighted or insulted. I was also asked to share a breakfast meal during the Ramadan holiday....once again, feeling accepted and grateful.
4) Vantage points as far as the eye can see: Standing atop the hill side where it is thought that the Jewish slaves carved out giant stone used to build the pyramids. The stone was sent away on boats on the Nile River and carried to great heights. Directly under this gigantic wall of stone lies the City of the Dead. It is easily recognized as all the roof tops are of the same height and is eerily lined with ancient cemeteries. Now with the population of Cario estimated at 7 million, people are forced to find homes in this make shift housing track. The families are technically "illegally" residing in the City of Dead but clearly a necessary habitat. It is thought that the living population is as high as 4 million amongst the population of the dead.

My journey through Egypt ended with a short stay in the Sinai region- Sharm elSheikh. I had 2 days filled with clear waters from the Red Sea, snorkeling with fishes that represented all the colors of a rainbow, and smooth sand that welcomed me to lay and sun bath with peace and silence. Of course I had many times when I was reminded of the immature and rude manners of the male species -this eventually setting my feet off into a sprint to the Israeli border ...stay tuned because Israel has proven to be the most fun of all!

Look at that, I did it! I completed my entry. Now, I can truly say that red wine makes everything feel fine!

Cheers.

Him vs. Me.......Part 2

-Him: "You are so beautiful, where is your husband or boyfriend??
-Me: "He is right behind you, ready to stick his foot up your ass"!!

-Him: "I do not get paid from the tour company, I only get paid what you tip me".
-Me: "Hmmm, what do you think the tour company would say about that"???

-Him: "I can tell by looking at you , you have no religion".
-Me: "It must be my white skin and blonde hair that gave it away, or is it the American horns that are protruding from the top of my head"??

-Him: "The dessert is made with honey. Sweet honey...just like you."
-Me: "Actually I am quite bitter tasting, it has been a bad year"

-Him: "You are so sweet and I am a MAN who can show you all the ways"!!
-Me: "Really, I have been known to date younger men but 16 years old is not doing it for me"!

-Him: "I am looking for a foreign wife to share my bed with, I am done with the Egyptian woman"
-Me: "You are disgusting"

Him: "Egyptian men are like stallions in the bedroom, that is why all the women want to be with us"
Me: "I have never been interested in horses that way"

Him: "Hello beautiful, are you looking for me? (he laughs) Don't worry I am a married man".
Me: "Well that makes it all the better. At first I just thought you were a pig, now I just think you are a F****** Pig"!


Note:
1) I must confess that I NEVER replied with any of the above answers. However just having the thought to reply that way always made me laugh and rarely did I get offended or upset.
2) I will be adding more as the list continues...stay tuned!

Monkey Business

I have painted you a picture of the gorilla trekking adventure so now let me tell you about all the things that fell in between.
Most tourists arrange their permits to see the gorillas months in advance however I was not this prepared...sound familiar friends?? However I found a safari group that was completely efficient in getting my permit and arranging my accommodations upon a days notice. They ensured that I had every document prepared and ready each day. I never once dealt with any glitches and the transportation was comfortable and reliable. I was blessed with the guidance of Sam who toured me around and gave me complete confidence and safety the entire trip. Sam provided me with information regarding the region, politics and people. Thank goodness for Sam!!
My journey in Uganda started in Kapala-the capital. I stayed in a hotel that was smack dab in the middle of the business district. It can be overwhelming the first day in any new country so my general plan is usually to stick close to the hotel and get my feel for the area. However, my agent arranged for transportation to any shopping or dinner destinations. I was given a lovely tour of the city including insight to the religious and political challenges of Uganda. This was a treat because it was not necessarily part of my package however the guide was clearly set in making my visit completely unforgettable. In the evening I was surrounded by the hills of Uganda from a lovely French restaurant complete with the sounds of Muslim's prayer and a distant purple and pink lightening show.

The next day I journeyed for several hours with across Uganda. I admired banana plantations, fields of tea leaves, local food markets and landscapes referred to as the "Switzerland of Africa". It is extremely green in this region as the rain is a constant. Once I arrived in the Bwindi National Park, I was brought to my sleeping quarters in a small but beautiful camping park. There were banda's (small round huts) or self contained tents for sleeping. I had a lovely self contained tent with a wrap around deck. My home for the night overlooked the entrance to the jungle. I sat on the porch and watched the black and white Colobus monkeys swing from the vines; only occasionally glancing in my direction to ensure their safety. After a warm meal, I drifted off with ease as the sound of the river lulled me to sleep.

An early rise to start my day and meet my fellow trekkers. Some were from Belgium and the others from London. (See, "In the Mist of it All" for gorilla adventures). The 3 from London; Sarah, David and Adam, were also on a tour and had a similar agenda as mine for the next 3 days. Once again, I found myself taken in by strangers and made an instant friend. Of course, I couldn't resist their generosity and good looks so I graciously accepted their temporary adoption. I was lucky to discover that my new friends were also staying at the same hotel on the beautiful Lake Bunonyi. Despite the rain we were able to enjoy canoeing, hiking, swimming and of course...drinking! I felt completely refreshed by the abundance of laughter and quickly developed wonderful new memories. Sarah, David and Adam share not only a strong friendship but a common career as lawyers. I enjoyed their witty banter, views on politics, and most of all...their ability to make every discussion end with a joke about sex. Boys...they never grow up! Of course, me, I am completely innocent and am offended by such jokes and comments :)

Side note: While in that region, the president of Uganda visited a nearby town and also drove through the town of Lake Bunyonyi. It was quit the buzz and people walked for miles to hear him talk.

Eventually we all returned back to Kapala but not before stopping off at the equator point in Uganda. I have to admit that I was taken by the water draining demonstration-I believe this is called the Coriolis Effect?? Water drains to the right when north of the equator and to the left south of the equator. On the actual equator itself-there is no bend or rotation of the water. I paid a few bucks for the demonstration and then received a certificate of completion. Now I understand that you might be thinking I am fool for paying for a certificate but I need to carry on the tradition. So far on my travels, I have received a certificate for Kilimanjaro, Balloon Ride over the Serengeti, Trekking with the Gorillas and now the Equator! Not exactly sure if I have room on my walls for the display but it will be good for a scrapbook.

Now back in Kapala, my friends joined me at my hotel and we ventured out for a farewell dinner. The next day I was off with Jewel Safari's to see the source of the Nile river-it bubbles up from Lake Victoria and then flows north to Egypt-it takes a total of 40 days. The rapids, that were a few meters away from the source, were not an appealing ride as I believe they were class 4. A bit too steep for my taste. Instead I devoured the local catch, tilapia and a Nile Lager.

Eventually I found myself back to my home base of Nairobi, Kenya. After a day of rest and clean-up, I flew out to Cairo, Egypt. Another interesting flight of people watching (people watching me mostly!!) but uneventful none the less. I am now here is Cairo and booking myself some tours of the area. I think you can expect some good stories to follow. As a teaser, I will tell you that my hotel room overlooks 2 pyramids in Giza.....Fanfuckingtakstic!

Cheers!!

In the Mist of it all.....

Follow the path of hills covered with misty air, soggy mud and slippery steps, for this is the Bwindi jungle. Once deep inside the canopy of trees comes falling leaves and sounds of crackling branches. Stretch the neck above to find bundles of black fur swinging from vines and long arms reaching for nourishment from berries and figs. Just a few steps further lay the family of 14; Two silver backs, 1 black back, and several mothers and their babes. Seemingly undisturbed by the visitors, the group of gorillas were observed in their home for the day. The silverbacks showed their dominance by remaining calm but completely aware and guarded. Mother's embraced their young and tried to rest however their efforts were futile as their babes were most curious. The juveniles proved their skills by swinging from vines, pounding their chests, and tumbling and wrestling with their siblings. Eventually these seemingly gentle giants moved on to a new place of rest.
The end of the journey was spent following the rolling land through crops of coffee beans and tea leaves. Children followed the trespassers with gifts and drawings to sell. They showered us with the few English phrases they knew: "Hello, how are you?". Hard to resist the smiles and sweet voices. These small children appeared with underdeveloped muscles and enlarged tummies that distinctly told the tale of malnutrition. Food is plentiful but lacking in all the necessary nutrition. Pests like worms eat away at their bellies and the children are left unable to grow properly. Despite this all, the children were covered with smiles and pride. Their tenderness left unscathed by the harshness of the environment. More children gathered to perform traditional African song and dance. Melody, rhythm and energy filled the air. For whatever may be lacking in this world, these people made up for it with their happiness and kindness. Their ability to share it was beyond expectation.
For the first time I realized that these moments of gratitude and amazement are slowly crushing and replacing the painful memories that once occupied my mind.
Thank you Uganda!
Cheers friends!!

Lamu My Sweet Treat!

Jambo my friends!! I have returned from the small island of Lamu. Different than I expected but not disappointed! I white knuckled most of the flight and kissed the ground when we landed. There are no motorized vehicles allowed on the island therefore donkey, foot or boat are the only way around. If you have been following my blogs, you will have noticed that foul smells seem to be a common occurrence. Sometimes the smell is coming from my fellow travelers, porters/guides, and yes, even myself! But this time the smell of Lamu wasn't any of these things, this time it was the pungent low tide or donkey dung. Truthfully, I just don't think I would feel comfortable during my travels unless something stunk like high hell.
The island was much smaller than I had anticipated but the quiet and slow pace was much welcomed. I stayed in a very secluded hotel with only 3 other guests. It is the end of their low season but even more devastating to tourism was the political unrest from the presidential elections held last Dec. in Kenya. Regardless, I enjoyed my stay and met a LOVELY couple from South Africa. Peter and Merryl were so kind and humorous. We went into town, fishing, swimming, and had meals together. I think they felt sorry for me, either that or they just enjoyed making fun of my American accent-PEETAR!! We had lots of laughs and I didn't mind being the butt of most of them. It is absolutely wonderful to sit for hours and discuss the cultural and political differences of all the places we have visited and even our own. September became the beginning of Ramadan. Most of the population here on the island of Lamu is Muslim, therefore, fasting and prayer was a common way of spending the day. There are many mosques nearby and the daily prayer could be heard from the roof tops.
Besides all of the wonderful sites, I truly find the people the most entertaining and often inspiring. So thank you to all the locals and travelers that I met along the way!
I am back in Nairobi again lounging by the pool. I will be trying to book a trip to Uganda to see the gorillas. Wish me luck and kisses to all!
Cheers!

Thanks for all the comments friends! They make me laugh and feel back at home. Can someone please send me a chicken tamale and a Negro Modelo!! Taco Surf.....yummy!!!

Cleanliness is Next to Godliness...Or is it???

Really, I don't mind getting dirty and staying dirty. Who needs to shower every day anyway?? A shower can be overrated. That is, until the 7th day in a row of no showering. When one's stench makes one sick....Just imagine what it was doing to others. That is when checking myself into a 5 star hotel seemed like a grand idea! Water pressure, hot water and a bar of soap is all I needed, well, that and about 45 minutes to scrub off the grime and dirt. I gorged on delicious treats and laid by the pool and once again, spoiled myself! That seems to be the trend of my trip.
A few days later I booked a trip to a small island called Lamu. Looking forward to the white knuckle ride of the small jet and landing on a grass airstrip. If I make it alive I will enjoy 5 days of tanning, fishing, and snorkeling.
So far I have been safe and making decent decisions regarding my company. Everyone still loves to discuss American politics-Obama, Obama, Obama. This is not just coming from the Africans, it is everyone I meet from around the globe. All eyes are on us mates!
Cheers!

Stupendous Serengeti Safari

Stuck in a bus for several days with 3 Yank's, 3 Kiwi's (New Zealand) and 1 Brit. Not a bad combination but, wow, we can really tear each other apart. Most of the jokes were at the expense of the one Brit-which seemed only fair. If you travel alone, you are only leaving yourself in a vulnerable position. Plus, with all the good manners of a Brit-he was unlikely to strike back. He should try being more crass, inappropriate and loud, like an American....or not.
It was pretty obvious from the start that getting out of the truck/jeep was only acceptable when we arrived at our camp site. Holding your pee became a game and a challenge. How long could one hold it in??? This is when it seemed like wearing diapers wasn't such a bad idea. Maybe that crazy American astronaut who wore diapers as she drove across country to kill her boyfriend's mistress, wasn't so crazy!!!
OK, back to the safari.....It really is the wild Serengeti-we saw all the animals you could imagine: leopards, lions, cheetahs, elephants, wildebeests, giraffes, zebras, rhino and hippos...at one point we had just missed a kill. The leopards were sitting in the tall grass exhausted; eating and protecting their food. One could see the blood all around their faces, as they pulled at the ligaments and muscles. Stupendous.
It was 7 days of safari but we lost one day to getting stuck in the mud and blowing the radiator. I was a bit nervous about making it to our next camp but we eventually got there. When we arrived, well after dark, there were about 20 zebras in our grounds. I only slept a few hours as the wild pigs and Zebra's were grazing 2 feet from my tent. I could hear them pulling up the grass, snorting, and chewing-just like at the family dinner table back home! I was afraid of a stampede if I moved or startled them so I kept still and slept little.
One day I was feeling a bit selfish....ok, I am selfish every day....but that particular day was actually glutinous! I treated myself to a balloon ride across the Serengeti! It was over the top. No pun attended, but it was incredibly calm and peaceful. A surreal moment.
Cheers!! Stay tuned because the rest of my trip is unplanned and may become the true adventure.....

A Bit of Girl on Girl Action....

I think that title may have grabbed your attention but you will had to read further to find out what really happened.....
Before I set foot on Kilimanjaro, everyone would say "You are going to learn something new about yourself. It will be amazing!!". My first thought was "Do I really want to learn anything knew about myself"?? I just spent the last year picking my ass up off the ground and putting the pieces back together!!! The last thing I need is something else to think about. I am fine just living in my simple mind with simple thoughts. No deep thoughts please!! So I would first like to say that Kilimanjaro was unbelievable but I didn't feel like I answered any deep burning questions like "the meaning of life" and nor did I discover how to solve my inner most evils. It was simply a beautiful place and an amazing hike.
I met so many wonderful people and truly enjoyed the experience. Difficult but absolutely worth it. The terrain was amazing-rain forest, dessert, rock formations, and my favorite section I have named the "moon"-it was very beautiful and peaceful. It was damn cold every day-especially at the top. Yes, Melissa and I spooned one night. I was the one who made the request, it had been a long journey at that point and I was absolutely freezing no matter how many layers of clothing I donned. It was about -25 degrees at the top, so spooning was a wonderful idea. So now close your eyes....and let your imagination take over. Are you done?? Ok, that is exactly how it went! Just two naked women nestled together in one small sleeping bag....all right, that wasn't exactly it but I wondered if you were still paying attention.
Ok, back to the story.... It was so amazing to see the beauty of 19,350 feet! We actually had been above the clouds for several days but this just felt like the top of the world to me. We arrived at sunrise which just made the glaciers look like heaven.
During the final ascent it was hard to breathe and my rib muscles suffered a bit the remainder of the trip down. I also hit my wall after climbing (up and then back down 1/2 way) a total of 14 hours that last day. I was completely exhausted-so tired I felt like I could collapse. The descent down to the last base was 2-3 hours of "skiing" down 2 feet thick of powder dirt-Except I didn't have ski's AND it wasn't snow! It was a 60 degree angle and every 30 minutes or so I had to sit in order to rest my legs. Regardless of the difficulty I still managed to have fun! Cruel as it may sound, watching others suffer more than me brought me comfort. There were some who had to be carried down or at least held up by their porters. There I go again with that selfish thread of mine.....
The altitude makes you say the funniest things and the 10 of us were usually in stitches each night from laughing so hard. Sharing sleeping quarters and trekking for hours each day with 6 guys and 4 girls leads to a loss of modesty! Bush toilets were the usual spot for all calls, day or night, and showering was left to baby wipes. Important to remember the proper order when using a babywipe: Face, hands, pits and then the bits! 5 of the 10 made it to the top and 8 made it to Gilman's point (crater point, nearest to the top). I am pretty proud of myself and don't underestimate my abilities but grateful for the lucky streak of no altitude sickness. One guy puked 25 time the morning of the ascent! He pushed on to the top but it wasn't pretty. It was his honeymoon and his wife was doing just fine, hiking along with me. I know that just killed him! Oh boys.....you are truly the weaker of the sexes. Will you just get over it?!
Well, on that note, I will carry on with my travels and check in after the Serengeti! Cheers!